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.Taig is the cheapest at about $250 to getstarted, about $450 for Sherline.It appears the only Unimat nowbeing sold is the CNC "Unimat PC", at about $750.Unimat seems tocharge quite a bit more than normal for accessories.Just keep inmind that these are not as rigid or powerful as full-sized lathes.* It has been reported that although the Taig and Sherline use a 3/4-16spindle thread, the threads on Taig chucks and faceplates are recessedfar enough that a Sherline lathe will only grab about 1.5 threads, notenough to be usable.However, one reader bored out the back of aTaig faceplate to 1 inch diameter for about 1/4 inch depth, and reports itthreads on his Sherline quite well now.So, be careful if purchasinga Taig accessory for use on a Sherline lathe!Harbor Freight sells a "precision 4x10" mini-lathe for around $700with autofeed, change gears for most english threads at extra cost.It is actually a 7" lathe which takes standard 2MT tailstock toolingand 3/8" cutting tools, and has Electronic Variable Speed (EVS)instead of changeable belts.This is larger and sturdier than thehttp://members.aol.com/OiledLamp/metalfaq.txt (42 of 126) [4/10/2002 1:16:46 PM] http://members.aol.com/OiledLamp/metalfaq.txtUnimat/Sherline/Taig, and sounds similar to the 8" Grizzly exceptfor the EVS.What can you do if you have little money? Aside from looking at usedequipment, you can actually build a lathe and other machine tools.Dave Gingery wrote an excellent series of books on building your ownmachine tools with just hand tools.While it's a lot of work, youcan learn a lot.First you make an aluminum charcoal foundry, thena lathe, and finish up with a dividing head (five or six books later).Other authors have published detailed plans for making lathes.Seethe publisher's catalogs from Lindsay, Cole's, Power Model, Tee,Nexus, and Argus.A very thorough discussion of vertical mills and what to look forwas in Home Shop Machinist, July/August and September/October 1993,by Thomas Howard.Here is a very brief summary:1.Spindle-to-table distance, or "daylight." Remember that by thetime you clamp your work in a vise on a rotary table then slap achuck with a drill into the spindle, you might run out of room.Try to anticipate your needs.2.Knee mills: A mill where you can raise/lower the table with acrank, as opposed to only raising/lowering the head and/or quill.Knee mills are generally more useful and accurate.3.Spindle brake: Locks the spindle during tool-changing.Verynice to have.4.Power downfeed on spindle.A very nice option, relieves tediumwhen boring, and often yields better surface finish.5.Spindle taper: determines what type of tooling you can "plug in"to the spindle.R-8 is most popular, and there's lots of inexpensivetooling.Morse and Brown&Sharpe exist and are less popular.6.Bearings: Apparently it's not as important whether they are ballroller bearings, as the grade.And the better the grade, thelonger the machine lasts, more than anything else.7.Table sizes and travel: Like lathes, you can always use one aninch larger! Don't buy one larger than you have room for.From 6x20 (inch) to 8x30 seems right for most home shops.Whatwill you be doing with it?8.Power feed on X/Y axes.Very nice to have, just barely fallsinto the "luxury" status.9.Table and knee locks: Used to maintain rigid setups when oneof the axes won't be changed during an operation.Check foreasy access and that they lock solidly.10.Graduated dials with adjustable zero: an absolute necessity.11.Adjustable gibs: a necessity.12.Range and number of speeds.An average is 100-2500 rpm,and 12 to 16 speeds.Howard goes into great depth in hisarticle to explain why you need both a wide range of rpmand many speed, and how those speeds should be spread outin a geometric progression.13.Motors: be sure you get a motor you can run.Check frequency(60 or 50 Hz), voltage, and 1-phase vs 3-phase.For home-shopuse, anywhere from 3/4 to 1-1/2 seems right.14.One-shot oilers are nice but in many cases they don't work rightand are hard to check.15.Look.If at all possible, examine the machine you want, beforeyou buy.16.Buying used: you should be experienced enough to know what totest for! Or "borrow" somebody who is.17.Will it fit? Be sure it can be moved to where you want it.Don't buy then find the stairwell is smaller than you thought.Get professional movers to do the moving; "real" mills arehttp://members.aol.com/OiledLamp/metalfaq.txt (43 of 126) [4/10/2002 1:16:46 PM] http://members.aol.com/OiledLamp/metalfaq.txtliterally "killers."18.Tooling: can sometimes double the cost.The following comments, regarding the Central Machinery (HarborFreight Salvage) "Precision 7"x10" Mini Lathe", were originallysent to John Kopf in response to a query of his, asking theopinions of this versus the Grizzley 8x18 lathe.Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1993 09:40:15 CSTFrom: (Gordon Pari)I own a 7 x 10 mini-lathe offered by Harbor Freight.First, thegood points.Compact size useful for relatively large turnings.easyto move/store.tight headstock bearings.nice 3-jaw Yamakawa (japanese)chuck.good cross-feed and compound feed.good accuracy overall.Mt2 tailstock compatability.fun to use.3/4" hole in spindle.quiet without feed engaged [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
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.Taig is the cheapest at about $250 to getstarted, about $450 for Sherline.It appears the only Unimat nowbeing sold is the CNC "Unimat PC", at about $750.Unimat seems tocharge quite a bit more than normal for accessories.Just keep inmind that these are not as rigid or powerful as full-sized lathes.* It has been reported that although the Taig and Sherline use a 3/4-16spindle thread, the threads on Taig chucks and faceplates are recessedfar enough that a Sherline lathe will only grab about 1.5 threads, notenough to be usable.However, one reader bored out the back of aTaig faceplate to 1 inch diameter for about 1/4 inch depth, and reports itthreads on his Sherline quite well now.So, be careful if purchasinga Taig accessory for use on a Sherline lathe!Harbor Freight sells a "precision 4x10" mini-lathe for around $700with autofeed, change gears for most english threads at extra cost.It is actually a 7" lathe which takes standard 2MT tailstock toolingand 3/8" cutting tools, and has Electronic Variable Speed (EVS)instead of changeable belts.This is larger and sturdier than thehttp://members.aol.com/OiledLamp/metalfaq.txt (42 of 126) [4/10/2002 1:16:46 PM] http://members.aol.com/OiledLamp/metalfaq.txtUnimat/Sherline/Taig, and sounds similar to the 8" Grizzly exceptfor the EVS.What can you do if you have little money? Aside from looking at usedequipment, you can actually build a lathe and other machine tools.Dave Gingery wrote an excellent series of books on building your ownmachine tools with just hand tools.While it's a lot of work, youcan learn a lot.First you make an aluminum charcoal foundry, thena lathe, and finish up with a dividing head (five or six books later).Other authors have published detailed plans for making lathes.Seethe publisher's catalogs from Lindsay, Cole's, Power Model, Tee,Nexus, and Argus.A very thorough discussion of vertical mills and what to look forwas in Home Shop Machinist, July/August and September/October 1993,by Thomas Howard.Here is a very brief summary:1.Spindle-to-table distance, or "daylight." Remember that by thetime you clamp your work in a vise on a rotary table then slap achuck with a drill into the spindle, you might run out of room.Try to anticipate your needs.2.Knee mills: A mill where you can raise/lower the table with acrank, as opposed to only raising/lowering the head and/or quill.Knee mills are generally more useful and accurate.3.Spindle brake: Locks the spindle during tool-changing.Verynice to have.4.Power downfeed on spindle.A very nice option, relieves tediumwhen boring, and often yields better surface finish.5.Spindle taper: determines what type of tooling you can "plug in"to the spindle.R-8 is most popular, and there's lots of inexpensivetooling.Morse and Brown&Sharpe exist and are less popular.6.Bearings: Apparently it's not as important whether they are ballroller bearings, as the grade.And the better the grade, thelonger the machine lasts, more than anything else.7.Table sizes and travel: Like lathes, you can always use one aninch larger! Don't buy one larger than you have room for.From 6x20 (inch) to 8x30 seems right for most home shops.Whatwill you be doing with it?8.Power feed on X/Y axes.Very nice to have, just barely fallsinto the "luxury" status.9.Table and knee locks: Used to maintain rigid setups when oneof the axes won't be changed during an operation.Check foreasy access and that they lock solidly.10.Graduated dials with adjustable zero: an absolute necessity.11.Adjustable gibs: a necessity.12.Range and number of speeds.An average is 100-2500 rpm,and 12 to 16 speeds.Howard goes into great depth in hisarticle to explain why you need both a wide range of rpmand many speed, and how those speeds should be spread outin a geometric progression.13.Motors: be sure you get a motor you can run.Check frequency(60 or 50 Hz), voltage, and 1-phase vs 3-phase.For home-shopuse, anywhere from 3/4 to 1-1/2 seems right.14.One-shot oilers are nice but in many cases they don't work rightand are hard to check.15.Look.If at all possible, examine the machine you want, beforeyou buy.16.Buying used: you should be experienced enough to know what totest for! Or "borrow" somebody who is.17.Will it fit? Be sure it can be moved to where you want it.Don't buy then find the stairwell is smaller than you thought.Get professional movers to do the moving; "real" mills arehttp://members.aol.com/OiledLamp/metalfaq.txt (43 of 126) [4/10/2002 1:16:46 PM] http://members.aol.com/OiledLamp/metalfaq.txtliterally "killers."18.Tooling: can sometimes double the cost.The following comments, regarding the Central Machinery (HarborFreight Salvage) "Precision 7"x10" Mini Lathe", were originallysent to John Kopf in response to a query of his, asking theopinions of this versus the Grizzley 8x18 lathe.Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1993 09:40:15 CSTFrom: (Gordon Pari)I own a 7 x 10 mini-lathe offered by Harbor Freight.First, thegood points.Compact size useful for relatively large turnings.easyto move/store.tight headstock bearings.nice 3-jaw Yamakawa (japanese)chuck.good cross-feed and compound feed.good accuracy overall.Mt2 tailstock compatability.fun to use.3/4" hole in spindle.quiet without feed engaged [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]